Week 1. London to San Francisco

Tuesday 1st Jan 2019

Happy New Year!

We set off mid am (after a lovely cooked breakfast chez Ben and Fay) for Heathrow.

We arrived at the Virgin Atlantic upper class ( business class) check in to discover they had their own security area -  so we whizzed through security and were soon in the upper class lounge. It had a youthful vibe with egg shaped suspended chairs scattered around and various seating areas to chill with a glass of something - as well as dining areas. It even has a spa! We enjoyed a pre lunch drink and a decent lunch before our flight was called. Pan fried cod with cauliflower mash for Graham, veggie  burger and chips for Carol, all complimentary of course.

Champagne on boarding whilst economy class were fighting over luggage space, followed by a pre dinner G&T and a glass of wine with dinner ensured we felt very relaxed throughout the flight. The seats converted into a flat bed and we attempted to get some shut eye. Unfortunately Carol found the flat bed too hard and reverted to recline in the seat with footstool and although did not manage any sleep, watched 2 films and an Alan Partridge mocumentary in comfort.The flight landed about an hour ahead of schedule - a few minutes under 10 hours in the air arriving at 6pm San Francisco time - 8 hrs behind UK time.

Glass of champagne sir?

Smoked salmon with curried potato starter - with a glass of Pouilly Fume - yum! We nicked the little airplane salt and pepper shakers.

On the bottom is stamped “ pinched from Virgin Atlantic” - so guess we won’t be the first!

We sailed through security in a few minutes, picked up our baggage and headed for the hotel shuttle bus pick up point.

Then the nightmare began..... We mistakenly hauled our luggage on to a shuttle bus heading for a hotel of the same chain but not the correct one so hastily hauled it back off, waited patiently for the correct shuttle bus, got on , arrived at the correct hotel, took our luggage and then a manic shout from Graham “where’s my rucksack!” Yes the rucksack containing all the E flight tickets, tour tickets, car hire vouchers, currency for several countries.... you get the picture. We presumed that he may have left it on the first bus we had got on which was on it’s way to a hotel several miles away ... or he may have left it at the bus stop... Graham shot off to catch the shuttle bus to retrace his steps, the hotel receptionist tried to contact the shuttle bus drivers - complicated by the fact different bus companies serviced the different hotels (although the same chain). Carol was left to drag the luggage to the room and anxiously await any news.. After several telephone calls via reception and conversations with different managers Carol managed to get through to the other hotel and .... the bag had been handed in to their reception.... What fantastic luck! A hassled looking Graham was given the news as he arrived back via the shuttle bus empty handed a little later. We headed to the bar for a much needed beer exhausted but relieved.

Wednesday 2nd Jan 

14 degrees C Sunny

Today we have 2 tours booked in San Francisco. The first being a tour in a vintage VW converted caravanette commencing 11am.

We have to pick up the offending rucksack at the other hotel so decided to book a taxi at reception. The friendly receptionist advised Graham it was not necessary as we could walk there in a short time. Sadly once we arrived at the hotel we discovered it was the wrong one (again). It seems the receptionist misinterpreted Graham’s explanation. A taxi was hastily ordered and we set off for the right  hotel passing the hotel we had just walked from! As time was now running short we continued on to San Francisco in the same taxi - Graham looking forward to being able to look back at the rather steep taxi bill as a fond reminder of such comedy of errors!

Taxi dropped us at Union Square, the designer shopping epicentre of SF. Sadly after settling the taxi bill we can only admire the window dressings, not the contents. A long walk to Fisherman’s Wharf to meet our first tour on a 1960’s VW Caravanette - the Love Bus.

The tour was brilliant, going places open-top buses can’t go, with excellent commentary on the history of SF. There were just 6 of us in the van - the tour was accompanied by appropriate 60’s music - cool! It was a surprise and an eye opener into the real San Francisco whilst still taking in all the “sights”. Among the houses we passed by were houses inhabited by Jimmy Hendrix, Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead (we don’t remember either but apparently they were a famous local band) and Robin Williams - our guide told us a story about when children went trick or treating all the posh houses gave them mega sweeties and Robin Williams gave them a toothbrush and toothpaste! Here’s a few pics. Kirsten our guide was entertaining, enthusiastic and ace at taking photos!

Golden Gate Bridge

The name Golden Gate refers to the entrance not the bridge. For years the bay was undiscovered as the lay of mountains obscured the entrance. Once discovered it was named the Golden Gate, decades before the bridge was built.

View from Twin Peaks

Following a chain driven trolley

Chains are buried in the road to drag these trolley buses. Originally they were horse driven but after an accident one slippery morning this mechanism was adopted.

Kirsten expertly driving her vintage bus

Among the houses we passed by were houses inhabited by Jimmy Hendrix, Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead ( we don’t know either but apparently they were a famous local band) and Robin Williams - our guide told us a story about when children went trick or treating all the posh houses gave them mega sweeties and Robin Williams gave them a toothbrush and toothpaste!  Kirsten our guide was entertaining, enthusiastic and ace at taking photos!

We lunched in Fisherman’s Wharfe on calamari, fries and fish tacos.

And then took a boat tour around the bay, under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz Island - the accompanying audio tour was informative and entertaining linking well with the info we had gleaned from our Love Tour.

Afterwards we walked along the Wharfs and Embarcardero on to Market St where we took the BART train back to the airport and the shuttle bus on to the hotel ( Graham grimly clutching his backpack).

So, we thought San Francisco was a lovely, liberal, peaceful city with AMAZING parks.

Thurs 3rd January.

14 degrees Sunny

Today we picked up a hire car from San Francisco airport and headed onto Highway 1 towards Monterey.

Although the roads were wide and busy at first they soon quietened down into single carriageways and the scenery was Spectacular with a capital S. Views constantly of the Pacific coastline as we drove by. Like Ireland in there were so many beauty spots you couldn’t stop at them all or you’d be there all day.

The view from the passenger seat

We picnicked at a beachside viewpoint just before Monterey.

After we checked in to our Motel - we walked through Monterey via Fisherman’s Wharf and on to Cannery Row (made famous by John Steinbeck) and back taking in the changing vistas as the sun came down.

We had dinner in a seafood restaurant overlooking the bay -recommended by Pam in  the tourist office and enjoyed a dinner of local seafood specialities - chowder, calamari, sand dab and Sea scallops - delicious!

Friday 4th January

15 degrees Sunny

Today we are driving to Carmel and down the Big Sur. The name Big Sur refers to a 90 mile stretch of rugged and beautiful coastline between Carmel and San Simeon and is reckoned to be one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world.

We start just around the corner in Pacific Grove (only a mile or two away) to more beautiful surfing beaches and decide to take the tolled 17 mile scenic route through Pebble Beach. ($10.25). This is essentially a very small road which snakes through immaculate golf courses built on sand and rock, golf hotels, beaches, a redwood forest, and millionaire private houses. You’d be forgiven for thinking you were in paradise - it is that lovely. Unfortunately our snaps were mostly into the sun so haven’t really come out but here’s a few shots.

Pebble Beach Municipal Golf Course pictured from Carmel beach.

The 250 yr old cedar.

The US Masters is being played here next year so you’ll be able to see nicer photos on the telly. We finish in the Pebble Beach Golf Club Visitor Centre where you can buy golf merchandise and visit the really posh restrooms (toilets), so we did both.

On to another beauty spot, Carmel by the sea, where Clint Eastwood was Mayor for a while. It has a nice beach and some lovely quaint shops (and nice houses).

Playful curlews on the beach 

We continued down the coast to Big Sur - an area of wilderness - scrubland, cedar forests with many national forest parks and continued stunning beachscapes - again photos don’t do it justice but here’s a few.

And now a little botany... Carol is always facinated by the different wild plants growing by the wayside.

Here in this part of California succulents grow in abundance on the cliff sides

And some in flower 

When we walked down to the beaches there were signs asking people to tip the wardens off if poaching was seen ....of succulents!

Tut tut what’s the world coming to...

These also appear to grow in abundance.
Can’t remember the name but it’s a common rockery plant in England. Allyssum?
So endeth our first botany feature...

Saturday 5th January

12 - 14 degrees , rainy with a few fine intervals

Today it is raining. We have loads of time, 6 hours to do a 2 hour journey and I’ve often wondered about the town names in California - Los Angeles, San Jose, San Francisco etc. They were obviously named by Spanish speakers but by whom and when? So the plan is to visit the local history museum, then take some photos that we missed yesterday of Pebble Beach (from outside the perimeter - not paying again!)

We worry that the museum may not be open with all Trump’s shenanigans with shutting down the Government, but we are in luck and embark on a historic tour of Monterey. It is fascinating, even more so because there is only the two of us so we can ask stupid questions without looking ridiculous. The guide is Tyler, an earnest young post grad studying for a masters in libraries and social history. It’s his first day leading the tour so he’s mentored by Andy, Senior Park Ranger, so that’s one guide each. (Carol tries not to snigger as an image of the American series Parks and Recreation kept intruding in her mind’s eye - listening to these two ernest young men made it seem that the series was actually a documentary!) We know nothing of American history so they start it at the beginning real slow for us. 

• Prior to 1700, California was inhabited by indigenous people, the Rumsien Indians.
• In 1972 It was then colonised (invaded) by Spain along with Mexico (a bigger prize as California was basically mountains and scrubland at the time) which also under Spain’s rule. 
• In 1821 Mexico gained independence and so came to govern California as well. Mexico opened California up for trade with the rest of the world, with Monterey as the epicentre.
• Finally in 1846, CA was taken by the Americans as part of a dispute (America vs Mexico) of other borders, Texas being the main one. As an aside the taking of California wasn’t brutal it almost an extra. Mexicans didn’t want to fight (and rumour has it) didn’t have any ammunition. 
• An American government was established with Monterey as the capital and then, just after everyone got appointed to their roles, they all buggered off to seek their fortune in the gold rush in San Francisco. And that’s why San Francisco has a population of 900,000 and an international airport and Monterey has a population of 28,000. We rather like Monterey.

It took about an hour and a half to absorb that and visit the few remaining buildings from that era.

A local store - At the time of the gold rush Joseph Boston realised there was more money to made selling picks and shovels to gold prospectors than actually gold prospecting yourself. He also added a safe in which prospectors stored their gold finds.

Small amounts of gold dust was poured into hollow feather quills on which the owners signed their initials on this alternative currency - as-the name suggests - Casa del Ora - the house of gold.

The garden of Pacific House

An old pavement made of whale bones . ( A Whaling station was active in the early years of American Independence) 

After that, an uneventful drive back to San Francisco Airport stopping en route for a picnic overlooking a very angry Pacific Ocean.

Coming up: a 10 hour flight to Fiji...