The Trees in Eire - week 2

Tues 8th May

After an extra overnight stop at Tree Grove - after dosing Graham up with medication we headed for Waterford and beyond.

Decided to stick to the motorway and get to our next site in good time for Graham to rest up.

Arriving in Waterford  town we thought we would find somewhere to park up and have an amble around the place and have lunch.

However we might have wanted to see Waterford but Waterford did not want us - every carpark had a height limiter on the entrance - they must be a bit snobby about campervans messing up the place!

So onwards and on to our destination a site just outside of Dungarvan on the coast. We stopped over by the harbour in Dungervan but unfortunately it was rainy and windy so it was not looking its very best - but it looked a charming place. It also had a lovely small supermarket where we found provisions for lunch.

On to the campsite - a large family site with access to the beach . We parked up overlooking the sea near a collection of fixed mobile homes reasoning it would be quiet as not many would be occupied this time of the year. Also it looked like the owners had placed a sign on a tree just for Graham.

The view from the van.
The sign said NO PLAYING HERE - that’s the ticket says Graham.

We had lunch in the van and as there was a break in the weather took a walk along the beach. People were actually swimming, it’s not swimming temperature! The Irish appear to be a very hardy!

On our return as Graham rested up -( he is feeling very under the weather) there was a lot of noise from one of the mobile homes opposite - all the family appeared to be placing the entire contents of the place outside - must be spring cleaning we thought.

A little later there was the rumble of a large truck with a new mobile home on a trailer. It parked immediately behind us and proceeded over the next couple of hours to move the existing mobile home off the pitch and replace it with the new! All the time the engine was running and there was much hammering etc. So much for a day of rest for the invalid!

Carol decided to do the washing and headed off to the laundry room.

On the wall of the amenity block were signs -No ball games, no water guns, no scooters , no skateboards, no go carts - anything which is fun basically! Dogs must be on a leash at all times. 

On the wall of the laundry room was a sign that users of the washing machines and tumble dryers should stay with the machine throughout the wash as they could not take responsibility for any loss if items. The washing machine took a €6.50 token , the dryer a €1.20 token for 5 mins - of course 1 token is not enough. There were no chairs to sit on. Carol sneeked off for half an hour and on return sat on an empty washing machine whilst the the clothes dried in the dryer. To have hot water in the sinks for handwashing it was a 25 cent token  - use of irons or plug sockets were with a 25 cent token. Apparently to help the environment. Showers were a 1 euro token. What a rip!( The tokens are purchased at the Reception - imagine the number of containers needed for the various types.)The showers were fixed small headed ones which probably would offer just a dribble - if we were a family staying for a week it would really get on our nerves - but the family part of the touring site was packed - guess the Irish just accept this is the norm.

Score for Casey’s Caravan and Camping Park, Clonea - 7/10 - too many extra charges and rules, the reception staff could have told us a new mobile home was due to arrive opposite us,the nearest toilet block was closed and it was a 10 minute walk to the next - which if you had to return to the van because you forgot the issued  key to the door was a right pain!

Needless to say we would not return and from now on we will probably stay away from the large family sites - good location or not. 

Weds 9th May.

We took our leave on another rainy day and headed for Cork. 

There’s something we’ve been keeping from you: Our leisure batteries which provide us with electricity are dying, and not holding their charge. We discovered this the day of our departure (they were OK on the practice run in Norfolk a week before, and we were busy with French visitors the day before so didn’t have time to sort it out). We can’t leave them on charge all the time as there is a burning chemical smell but when we turn the charger off they only last 4 hours or so. We have sourced a battery supplier in Cork marina which should be able to provide new ones. We drove through stunning scenery which would be fantastic in good weather. Sadly O’Connell’s did not have in stock the required batteries but could order us some - it’s complicated - they need to be a specific physical size but a decent output and capable of multiple discharges. We decide to check out Halfords on another retail park but they also did not have what we required - so we telephoned O’Connell’s and will have to return on Friday to pick them up. (we don’t want to risk going on to more remote places not fully armed).

We continued on to Clonakilty where we will spend a couple of nights at Desert House Camping which is a small touring park on a Dairy Farm overlooking Clonakilty Bay - just the job!

Thanks to Dave and Ann a lovely Irish couple from Bray who gave us this recommendation whilst parked next to us in Kilkenny.

Hello also to Ken and Paula who also parked near us in the Kilkenny site. Their home is in Malaga Spain, but were touring in a hired motorhome to see if it was for them and also visiting Ken’s elderly mother who was in a home nearby, and so loved their rather enthusiatic Springer Spaniel Dexter - that they had brought him over to see her for a visit.

 

We parked up and walked into Clonakilty town. A pretty town with lots of shops, pubs and restaurants - definitely on the tourist trail.

 

It is famous for Black Pudding - so we called in to a traditional looking family butcher and bought some for tomorrows breakfast - it cost 83 cents (black pudding must be the cheapest thing in Ireland - apart from ‘tatoes that is) but as we only had 50 cents in change or a 5 euro note the lovely butcher took the 50 cents - what a kind man!

A van meal and an early night - Graham is still feeling rubbish but will keep taking the tablets!

Tomorrow is supposed to be rain free - fingers crossed. We have the choice between a stupendous beach and a restored ring fort, both within cycling distance. 

 Thurs 10th May

Awoke to the sign of overnight rain and light drizzle ( is this the soft rain the Irish describe?)

Had a van cooked Clonakilty black pudding, tomato and fried egg breakfast - a part Irish you could say! Can’t say we were blown away by the black pudding it had funny grainy/ seedy bits in it (barley?), perhaps an aquired taste.

As we ate Carol admired our wall hanging/ flower container - she found it in the utility room back home and thinks it may have been a gift from Japan from when Ben was teaching there. After not really finding anywhere suitable at home it will now be a permanent van fixture - Carol thinks it looks splendid! There is a plastic tube tucked inside where you can put water to keep a few blooms in. It will be stocked up with whichever wild flowers are to be found during our trip. Carol really enjoys seeing the variety of wild flowers on our walks/ cycles through the countryside but alas has left her reference handbook at home. Little things....

After brekkie we got the bikes out and cycled to Liosnagcom. The only 1 of more than 30,000 ring forts scattered across Ireland that has been reconstructed on it’s original site. Apparently it has a souterrain and a central thatched hut - giving a vivid impression of life in a 10C defended farmstead (Lonely Planet 2006) We cycled up hill and down  dale taking a wrong turning as norm - and took direction from a friendly local. It looked like the signage had been removed. When we got there it was a tad underwhelming - no longer open to the public and when Graham trespassed for a closer view showed evidence of vandalism. We don’t think it had seen visitors (well human anyway) for a while. Shame, but at least it was free.

Ummm ... the scenery was very nice en route and we passed a potty mouthed farmer in a quad motor trying to round up some sheep shouting you ******g b***h to one of the sheep which we thought was a little ungrateful given all the lambs around.

So back to the van for a spot of lunch and then on to the next recommended guide book sight.

Inchydoney Island beach, supposedly one of the nicest beaches in the area - a small island linked to the mainland by a causeway - which we could not distinguish from the main road as we cycled to it.

The route took us along Clonakilty Bay and the tide was in - the first time we have seen it since we arrived. There was a fair amount of birds to spot including curlews and the view towards Clonalkilty was lovely.

 

A few kms later we arrived on the Island to see the beach ahead of us.

It certainly looked like one of the loveliest on this stretch of coastline to us. The pictures don’t do it justice, it was gorgeous. Atlantic rollers, dunes, seawater lake behind. Superb!

The focal point is Inchydoney Island Hotel and Spa (255€ a night b&b). A luxury spa with a thalassotheraphy pool - apparently - we cycled around the guest car park and then walked along the beach.

It was fun watching the surfers and body surfers attempting to catch the waves - the place being the home of theWest Cork surf school.

Graham surfer watching.

Another shot of the beach

The rocks were covered in wild thrift ( think that’s what it’s called - C)

Very pretty.

Back to the van for dinner - we contemplated visiting a pub - De Barra’s (for the yet to have pint of Guiness) which is famous for being a regular haunt of Noel Redding , bass player of Jimi Hendrix Experience fame until his death in 2003. The pub holds an annual Noel Redding Experience festival weekend which is to be this weekend but sadly we will be elsewhere, and Graham is feeling a little shy with his Shingles rash which has now spread to the prominent nose, so perhaps another time...

Score for Desert House 8/10 - great location, again shower facilities basic, laundry room just a row of sinks. Would stay again due to ease of walking access to a lovely town.

Fri 11th May

Throughout the night it *****d it down with strong winds rocking the van, atmospheric.

However we have a mission - after a quick breakfast - no part Irish today! - we headed back to Cork.

The nice man at O’Connells Batteries let us use the workshop to take out the drivers seat and take out the offending tired batteries and replace with new. Half an hour, job done. It turns out one battery was completely dead and the other was just completely knackered. 

We then headed off to Killarney - alert to any picnic opportunities. A brown sign with a picnic table design a few kms out promised but as we turned off the main road in the direction indicated another sign stated it was 31 kms away - what! Back to the main road we continued on in despair - in France every other km has a picnic spot off the road - we ended up in a church carpark  at the side of a very busy main road and ate our picnic lunch in the back of the van as the traffic thundered by. Those of you who know Graham can understand how traumatic it was for him!

We arrived in Killarney at Fleming’s White Bridge Park about 2.5 km from Killarney at about 3.30 pm and chose a nice quiet pitch in lovely park surroundings...

And had a lovely cup of tea.

We then cycled into Killarney. We were so surprised - expecting another Kilkenny - the place was quite big with a serious traffic problem!

The town centre was filled with souvenir shops, big hotels, tour booking booths, music pubs and restaurants, tourists ambling vaguely around or drinking beer at the various bars/cafés. The roads through the town were clogged with traffic. Not a restful place at all. Leprachaun fridge magnets, Ireland baseball caps, Peat bog incense burners, Shamrock underpants, anything with Guinness on it, glasses, drink mats, mugs, you name it, it’s all here, as you gaze into overpriced restaurants and pubs promising “traditional music” coughing on diesel fumes mingled with the piped “Irish music” on street corners. Maybe we’re being a bit harsh but Killarney roads have definitely been built for coaches not pushbikes.

There is the start of  the Killarney National Park  a 10.2 hectare park south west of the town - including beautiful lakes and leading to the Muckross estate, donated to the state by Arthur Bourn Vincent in 1932 and it is there we will hope to spend the day tomorrow before commencing our tour of the famous Ring of Kerry.

Sat 12th May

Woke up to sunshine which was a nice surprise as we expected it to be cloudy. Had breakfast al fresco on our patio area at the rear of the van. We are in an area with just 1 other campervan - a millionaires pitch as Graham would say! We have our own toilet block the only thing missing is that the showers have not been opened yet - we don’t mind as we shower in the van in our little heated shower room.

The area nearest the entrance is full of campers all on top of each other for the sake of a few more hundreds yards.. we don’t understand it but aint complaining!!

For our day trip today we cycled to the Killarney National Park. Killarney you have redeemed yourself - what a magnificent place - acres and acres of woodland surrounding enormous lakes. An impressive country house - Muckross House with beautiful gardens - all free ( apart from house entrance). Muckross Abbey. A waterfall. Lakeside tea room. Boat trips for hire. Jaunting Cars for hire ( horse and cart)

The view of one of the lakes as we approached Muckross House.

Muckross House as it would look in it’s hey day - actually it looks very much the same today

Tourists are still offered Jaunting Cars as they call them.

Those less physically inclined can be taken around the estate by horse and cart.

We cycled on to this lovely waterfall.

And then cycled another few kms to have lunch at the tearoom.

Another lake view..

And returned back to an evening of warm sunshine ( if you shelter from the biting wind)

Had a tapas night in the van - otherwise known as leftover eat ups - before listening to the Eurovision Song Contest on the radio - yes we are that desperate! And plotted our route for tomorrow as we commence the famous and no doubt very busy Ring of Kerry - wonder how many coaches will overtake us!

Score for Fleming White Bridge Killarney 9/10 - just a long walk into the town - about 10-15 mins by bike - and the stated local pub was attached to a hotel on a very busy road. We were impressed with the park like location and the very friendly and obliging reception staff. En route we saw the other campsites on offer, and, if coming again, we would stay here over the others.

 

Sun 13th May

Sunny with a cool wind as we set off on our Ring of Kerry Tour. Driving anti clockwise as advised with the flow of the coaches but as we only set off at 11am we did not see one coach! - I imagine they set off at 9am so we must have been hours behind them.

The northern part of the drive is not described as the most picturesque - that will be driving down the west - but it was still a great drive with views of mountains, rolling countryside and rivers.

This was from a viewpoint called Mountain point - by this time the weather was clouding over - but you can get the feel of the place.

We continued along until we got to the car ferry point at Cahersiveen - hoping to find a picnic spot (Graham loves a picnic! - free, good food, good service). However the wind drove us back and we ate our sandwich in  the van with a promise of tea and cake once we reached the Skellig Experience centre on Valencia Island, which can also be reached by a bridge which we decided to cross as it was very near the centre.

View of the island from the car ferry point.

The Skellig Experience Centre descibes life on the rocky Skellig Island - the most westerley island in Europe. It was inhabited by an order of monks from about 500AD to the 12th Century. They built a monastery at the top of this isolated rocky island - carving hundreds of steps into the cliff side, and could only eat: fish they caught, birds they caught, birds eggs, weeds. That’s it. They chose a rock with no soil to grow crops or raise cattle to be nearer to God. Today tourists are taken by boat weather permitting (not very often) and left for a couple of hours to explore the ruins - there are no toilet facilities, hand rails etc so it is only for the hardy ( or fool hardy!) 

The centre has an excellent film describing the monks lives - but the café was not the National Trust like delight we anticipated - more a Cozy Kaff - but we enjoyed the cake all the same!

View of Portmagee on the mainland from the Skellig Experience.

We motored on to our overnight stopover site - Valencia Caravan and Camping site. By this time the wind was picking up. There was just one other van on site - the owner of which shouted to us to pick a pitch as the owner was not on site.

After settling in we decided to hit a local pub for our first Guinness. After a quick look at the harbour we walked back to a pub called the Bostons we passed on our way down. Hoping we would not be the only people in there  we were mightly relieved that as we entered the atmospheric bar - it was packed. Looked like the locals sat near the bar and visitors took a seat at tables. We ordered our drinks at the bar - Graham a Guiness and Carol a tasting paddle of 3 1/3 pint samples of local beers.

We were just finishing our drinks when a young couple of Americans came in and with an air of entitlement - sat down and waited. 10 mins later the barman (used to it obviously) went to the table with a pad in hand to take their food and drinks order - and then went back to the bar to pour the pints and then carry them to their table! 

We took our empty glasses back to the bar where a couple of locals chatted to us - joking about the weather being great for the place as the wind picked up and the rain began to tip it down.

Back to the site for a cosy van meal - we felt very priviledged as we watched a French plated car arrive and the occupants struggled to put up their tent in the pouring rain.

Mon 14 th May

Today we left Valencia Island via the car ferry as we left in “soft rain”. Our intention today is to continue to Glengariff, a tropical paradise warmed by the Gulf Stream (Guide book) just below the Kerry peninsula. 

To join the mainland and complete the Skellig Ring which is a scenic circuit just west of the Ring of Kerry. No coaches are allowed -Yes!- so we just need to avoid other campervans on this bit.

After passing through Portmagee  we came upon a “Best view of Kerry Cliffs” site. We paid our €4 each entrance fee muttering under our breath - however the views were fantastic and there were info boards with relevant facts - so we forgave the fee!

There was a recreation of the stone huts the monks on Skellig Michael Island would have lived in - complete with seabirds. There were security cameras in place to prevent anyone running off with a plastic puffin!

At the top there were signs you could camp here for 12€. If only we’d known now we have our new batteries, it would be like camping on Bempton Cliffs but only 20 metres away from the edge!

There were good views of the Skellig Isles - through the mist.

And of the famous Kerry Cliffs

We carried on round the Ring of Skellig, up and up and up on a single track road hoping no-one was coming down the other way - there was no way we were reversing down! Luckily we made it to the top, a radio mast, car park and another stunning view, and ... down the other side. At the bottom was xxxx with a lovely isolated beach where we decided to have lunch. (You can just see a Skellig in the right hand corner)

A bit more remoteness and 20 mins later we joined the main Ring of Kerry again. (For those who don’t know, the Ring of Kerry is a pretty peninsula marked out a tourist route as the Ring of Kerry). Oh boring we thought after the wild views of Valencia and the Ring of Skelligs. How wrong we were. This part of the route is dotted with hairpin bends and viewpoints, some big enough for a coach. We stopped at a few but one was particularly pretty. Atlantic Ocean, islands, beaches, and rocks all in one vista. Graham tried to explain the Skellig view camping option to a German motor-biker who was headed in the opposite direction but I don’t think it went fully in due to language difficulties. However, in looking down on the view we wondered if there was a campsite nearby. Yes there was. The aptly named Wavecrest. Come to think of it we remember this one as one of Dave’s (from Kilkenny) recommendations. Glengariff can wait, we divert into the campsite and choose a place 40m from the sea and feast on the interrupted view all evening.

View from our pitch.

Later on in the evening clouds start their strange formation. They’re quite pretty after a glass of Médoc.

After a good nights sleep we awoke to this.....


Happy Tuesday ! ...on to Glengariff....... 

May in Ireland 2018

Can you believe it - it has been 2 years since we’ve had a Rex campervan adventure. We’ve spent 2 years getting our holiday hone in Surgères up and running  and now we're ready to get back on the road!
We will set off from Holyhead, Anglesey - for Dublin on the 2nd of May ready to tour Eire during the month of May. As on our past Scotland trip we have found a music festival - so will be heading to Kilkenny for the Rhythm/Roots festival which is 4 th - 7 th May. We have booked 3 nights at Tree Grove campsite and tickets to a gig on the eve of 5th May. Memories of Stromness linger but we’re ready to embrace our Irish experience - bring on the craic!

Tues 1st May
Today we made our way to Anglesey - Holyhead for an overnight stay at Pen - y- Lynn campsite just outside Holyhead to allow a quick departure to catch the ferry at 8am tomorrow!

Guess our first Irish breakfast will be on the ferry.

Arrived about 6.30 pm after a leisurely drive from Beverley. Drove on to the campsite - found a pitch and hooked up for our overnight stop. No signage whatsoever re how to contact the owner or how the facilities worked as  we just parked up in horizontal rain.

There were 2 sheds  ressembling beach huts - 1 for ladies and 1 for gents - these contained a loo and a sink - no sign of shower facilities. And that appeared to be the sum total of the facilities.

As it was blowing a hooley we ate a van meal - Yes the famous £10 meal from Tescos! And very good it was too. Had a small nightcap and an early night. 

Score for campsite - 8/10- great location for ferry, generally clean and well maintained but minimal facilities.

Weds 2nd May

Up and at ‘em for 7am ready for a 7.30 check-in at the ferry port.

As we drove out of the site Carol received a text message - the ferry departure was delayed until 9.30 am - problems catching up from the gales the day before.

No worries we found a large Tesco and did some last minute shopping - including another meal deal - woo hoo!and then had a full Welsh breakfast in the café to compensate for the disappointment of the delay.

On arrival at the ferry port as we checked in we were given a voucher for 2 full Irish breakfasts on the ferry as compensation! Typical! “Have another” said the cheery check-in person - sadly we couldn’t manage it....

Arrived in Dublin just after 1pm and made our way to Enniskerry where we picnicked in the courtyard of Powerscourt gardens and house.  This Palladian house was set in magnificant formal gardens with a view of the Great Sugarloaf Mountain. Originally a 13th century Anglo- Norman castle - the current house was commissioned by Richard Wingfield the 1st Viscount Powerscourt in the 1740’s. It was gutted by a fire in 1974 and renovated.

It now has an impressive garden centre, upmarket café and shops. We experienced our first Irish day of ‘4 seasons in 1 day’ - with periods of sunshine, cloud and wind but the hail drove us into the shops sooner than Graham would have liked. ( shame! - C )

We then drove through Sally Gap. One of the most spectacular drives through the Wicklow Mountains National Park to Rathdrum for our 1st night in the Republic. We drove through mostly single track roads with blanket bog and heather both sides - the gorse in full flower with Mountain views around us. Fantastic! Sorry our photos didn’t show what we saw - so decided not to include here.

We stayed at Hidden Valley Holiday Park just a 10 min walk from Rathdrum. It was set in a lovely valley surrounded by trees, overlooking waterfalls with it’s own lake. 1st day’s mileage 53 miles.

Score for Hidden Valley -  9/10 - a well maintained park with lots of activities for children such as mini golf, playground and pedalos on the lake.

Apparently it was fully booked for the bank holiday weekend 4th - 7th May. Just think it’s a bit mean to charge a euro via a slot machine for every shower! We chose to use the van. (think this is the norm in Ireland)

Thurs 3rd May.

We headed off to see a bit of the south east - intending to stop for lunch in Enniscorthy - described as an attractive market town on the west bank of the River Slaney, - famous for a rebellion against the British in 1798.

We parked up by the river and went in search of an Irish artisan bakery to get some freshly baked rolls for our lunch. Sadly as we wandered around the streets which to us resembled a rather worn Scottish border town (sorry Duncan) rather than an Irish jewel - we found not such a shop. Pound shops, hardware stores, pubs, takeaways, and many meat shops (butchers) to name a few. However I must mention the superb Smythick’s hardware shop - what an amazing emporium. It sold everything, lights, kitchen appliances, paint, tools - serious tools like circular saws, garden equipment, electricals. It reminded me of Briggs and Powells in Beverley in my youth.( Graham)Upstairs was the bits and bobs department and I remember going in to buy various resistors, diodes and transistors. They had every colour combination available plus advice on soldering techniques, and if you bought something, they’d actually help you afterwards. Anyway, back to Smythicks, we bought a hoselock tap connector because we left ours on the tap in Wales. Later on the next campsite (Morris Castle Strand) we didn’t need it because the previous occupant had done exactly what we did and left their tap connector on the tap. Thanks, so now I have a spare.

And the weather wasn’t nice either - windy and overcast and cold. Muttering to each other in disgust we got back in the van and continued to drive in search of the said artisan bakers shop - scouring shops as we drove through villages but not finding any - we continued on to our overnight campsite in Co Wexford just a few kms from Kilmuckridge - Morriscastle Strand Holiday Park. Today we travelled 66 miles. This site is just behind sand dunes on a deserted beach. There are a smattering of empty caravans and 2 other motorhomes on the 250 pitches so we have a choice of pitches. Tomorrow is a Bank Holiday and the site is fully booked - the single track access road will be interesting on our exit!

After a van prepared sandwich ( Tescos sliced bread!) - we had a bracing walk along the 20 km long beach of Morriscastle ( well we walked for just over an hr). Situated just a few minutes walk over the dunes from the site  it was practically deserted. We do like a beach walk  - and returned to the van refreshed.

Another evening in the van - the weather remaining very windy, cold and showery. And the telly won’t work here in Eire - the search for channels shows Estonia, Slovakia, all other european countries but no Eire ! We just usually watch Newsnight you understand - never silly quiz programmes (C) or Place in the Country property porn( G)...Thank goodness tomorrow we head for Kilkenny and the Rhythm/Roots festival to save us going stir crazy! We have to talk to each other ...!  

Glad we pre booked our site this weekend because the owner of this site says it is also fully booked tomorrow for the weekend  and it had 250 touring pitches! Score for Morriscastle Strand 7/10 - lovely beach access but rather poor facilities - 4 showers for 250+ people! There appeared to be lots of facilities for families- tennis,football - looks like a shop and takeaway was being prepared for the summer season and we guess in the Summer holidays it would be full of contented families.

.

Fri 4th May

The sun is shining! Well mostly...

We had a short walk on the beach after breakfast and then set off for Kilkenny where we will be staying 3 nights for the Rhythm and Roots festival.

We left to the sound of a troup of children whooping delightedly in the sand dunes in readiness for the bank holiday weekend.

We drove via Wexford - and then onwards as there were no convenient parking spots and on to New Ross.

New Ross is the home of the replica Famine Ship Dunbrody - which sailed from New Ross to America and sometimes Canada during the potato famine in the 1840’s. We had a guided tour with Jim accompanied by a couple of actresses who portrayed a poor passenger travelling steerage and a first class passenger who dined with the captain. The steerage passengers shared wooden bunks - whole families practically lived in 6ft  by 6ft bunk throughout the 4-6 week voyage ( 6ft by 18ins per adult, 6ft by 9 inch per child and nothing allowed for a toddler/baby]with only minimal food supplies and only half an hour each day allowed on deck to prepare a meal if the weather allowed. The tour included imagined film footage and also at the end there was a hall of fame of famous American decendants of the emigrants. Of course we know that British landlords and the British penal law system were the cause of the hardship so we tried not too be too consumed with guilt as we progressed through the tour. It was extremely well done though. It appeared many of the visitors were Americans we guess doing an Irish roots tour.

We had a rather delicious lunch in the café - our first meal out this trip! ( hurrah ! - C ) - well apart from a Tesco breakfast and not sure that counts...

However New Ross also has a traffic problem and is not the prettiest looking town so we left after the tour, taking about a 10 mile circular lost the route trip until we managed to locate the road to Kilkenny!

One thing that has struck us on our journey thus far is the lack of traffic. Captain Slow( G) is always looking in the mirrors ready to move over to let the workers pass but there is very rarely any. The clue to this may lie in the ship we just visited. Around 1840 there were about 8 million inhabitants in Ireland (Republic). Now, they are just coming up to the 5 million mark. 

Below is the motorway en route to Kilkenny - and No, the traffic wasn’t all behind us, there are two lanes.

On to Kilkenny where we will stay 3 nights - hurrah says Graham spared a couple of days driving!

The campsite is delightful - we managed to secure the furthest pitch overlooking farmland with some of Dan, the owners, horses grazing in a paddock next to the van under a clear blue sky. Looks like we may be able to have dinner al fresco tonight as the sky is clear and the sun is shining. Life is sweet!

Sat 5th May

Another warm and sunny day.

Rode our bikes in to Kilkenny City - 10 mins away. Kilkenny is full - of tourists, hen/stag parties, music festival goers and locals all enjoying the sun and by the sounds from the numerous bars - the craic!

First stop - the ticket office to pick up our tickets for the gig tonight - opposite the Kytelers Inn (where the gig will be) Carol wandered into a record store to enquire where the ticket office would be - “Tis is I!” -said the cheery chap behind the counter - that was easy. 

The gig was sold out - we are to see - The Deep Dark Woods from Saskatchewen, Canada, where there are a lot of woods, dark and deep.

The next stop was a walk up the medieval mile to St Canice’s Cathedral and a tall (but thin) 30m round tower built between AD700 and 1000- it was used by monks to look out for marauding Vikings and to hide treasures and people. We imagined walking up a circular stone staircase but it was in fact a series of steep ladders with platforms for passing ( squeezing) places! The view from the top though was worth the occasional close squeeze of a passing body. 

We picked up a sandwich for a picnic lunch and headed for Kilkenney Castle. From the outside it looks more like a grand stately home - it is set in about 20 hectares of parkland with gardens, children’s playground and woodland pathways - all free to roam and by the look of the crowds of people a very popular place. We joined the picnickers in the grounds and enjoyed the views and the sunshine.

After another meander we cycled back to the site for a couple of hours respite before walking back in to have dinner and go to the gig.

Had a quite tasty 2 course meal in a pub/ restaurant but when presented with the bill discovered  we had been given a more expensive choice unbeknown to us resulting in a 5 euro supplement and that a pint of lager was €6.40! Paid up feeling that we had been a little ripped off and perhaps paying an english tax -and on talking  to some Irish people they indicated that may well be the case! However they said cheerfully it will be worse post Brexit so guess we should be grateful!

The gig was in a very old pub called Kyteler’s Inn. This is Dame Alice Kyteler’s old house built in 1224 and is a tourist attraction in it’s own right.

Dame Kyteler went through 4 husbands all of whom died in suspicious circumstances. She was tried for witchcraft in 1324. The solid stone basement feels like a dungeon.

The “medieval mile” in Kilkenny centre.

The gig was upstairs in a medieval looking room. The crowd were a good  spirited group of people - of differing age groups - some even appeared older than us! It was fantastic. The group really enjoyed themselves and gave us a demonstration of excellent musicianship and after a serious start brought the house down! 

Sorry Carol could only sneek through the crowd to take this photo!

Needless to say the liquid refreshments (even more expensive!) were also going down a storm. We left just after 10.15pm but another group were due to be playing at 11pm. As we walked past the many many pubs and bars various styles of live music could be heard and everyone was loving it! If anyone fancies a lively music festival in a picturesque small city this is the just the job - just  make sure you start saving well in advance!!

Sun 6th May

Woke up rather later than norm and enjoyed an al fresco van cooked brunch.

After a little sunbathe we walked back into Kilkenny via the castle grounds for another meander and also to visit the Smithwick Experience.

This is a renowned medieval stairway where butter sellers hung out apparently - hence the name.

 

 Once a brewery founded in 1710 on  the site of a Franciscan monastery, the  brand has now been taken over by the owners of Guiness so the beer is now brewed in Dublin. The site is now used for a tourist attraction which demonstrates the history of the beer and how it is made. Local guides take you on an  interesting  tour including holograms and a video/ hologram picture library ending in a tasting session - Yay! Graham succumbed to buying a Smithwick fleece in the shop - something else to wear on the golf course!

A leisurely walk back along the river by the castle grounds and back for dinner chez nous.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our bank holiday weekend in Kilkenny - the weather obviously a bonus but we found it a charming lively place.

Tomorrow we will head for Waterford and beyond on to Dungervan - to try to take advantage of the last promised day of good weather. Apparently it’s all going downhill on Tuesday!

Score for Treegrove 9/10. Convenient location 10 mins by bike , 40 mins mostly pleasant riverside walk in to Kilkenny. Cheery and helpful owner Dan. Showers again seem rather minimal and we prefer to have used the van facilities. Nice to be situated with ponies in paddocks beside us. 

Mon 7th May

Bank holiday Monday.

We were hoping to head off for Waterford today.

However we spent the day in St Lukes Hospital Kilkenny A + E as Graham had been feeling out of sorts the last few days. Having had a headache for 4 days, a sore red eye and a rash on his scalp for 2 days - we decided to have things checked out. There were seven people in the waiting room (unlike Hull), but we were seen within 10 minutes (unlike Hull), and sent off to an isolation cubicle to await examination. One doctor thought it may be Shingles ( Carol’s diagnosis) - another thought it may be an allergy to something unknown. After 4 hours waiting for blood test results - we really aren’t sure what for and a chest xray - a precaution as the lovely Indian sounding doctor stated Graham was elderly and more likely to have complications! Oh how one of us laughed!...

As Carol mentioned she was off to get a sandwich the Nurse said “go and enjoy yourself in the sun” and brought Graham a ham sandwich and a pot of tea on the house. 

We were finally sent on our way with a prescription for anti viral drugs - in case of Shingles (Doctor 1) and anti hystamines in case of allergy. (Doctor 2) ”Goodbye Young Man “ said Doctor 1 - rather unnecessary we thought... 

 

By this time it was 5pm and so we drove back to Tree Grove campsite, booked in for another night and then cycled in to Kilkenny to a pharmacy to pick up the medication. €80 - what! - Carol insists Graham takes every single tablet whether he likes it or not! 

Tomorrow onwards to Dungervan, Waterford .... hopefully.

Week 3/4 Work is completed.

3rd July

So here we have our after shots...

The Children's bedroom 

Before we had a double bed with wooden fixed headboard and also a couple of wooden fixed tables - you'll need to see previous blog photos as Carol hasn't got them on her ipad. And a few strange wiring cover up jobs needed as reported in previous blog updates. 

Now a nautical theme

The landing is similarly themed - to be used as a play area ( see previous blogs for it's deep red glory!)

The main feature the transformed kitchen diner

And the completed corner cupboard project - what a good job! - well worth the time and effort - thanks to Roger for frame construction and consultancy advice, well... the whole job really.

  

Thanks also need to go to John who disassembled the old kitchen left in the garage into manageable bits to enable to get it to the  tip in several car trips! And Patti who helped with painting duties ( all visiting friends have been given "jobs" before being allowed any sight seeing pleasure!)

We also have assembled a gazebo structure for added shade on the terrace ( we had several days of scorchio weather with hot sun)

Unfortunately also some rain which collected in pockets on the canvas roof - so a job in progress.

We guess that in heavy rain it will need to be removed and reassembled... Not ideal but took 8 mins to reassemble during the time trial! - not too bad.

July 5th ( Happy Birthday Ben!)

Another month has flown by - we leave with a sense of achievement in a good kitchen job done (mostly - still a few snags to fix).

Disappointed we couldn't have room to bring all the finishing touches - books, games, pictures etc - they will arrive next time - end Aug/beg Sept. When the next project begins - the swimming pool digging!

Yes we have decided to construct a small pool - bought from a company that provides a kit - you arrange the hole digging,construct a linked frame and they line it once constructed. Rob the kitchen fitter is to help Graham put the frame together ( he's done a similar job before) early Sept. A local digger owner is to dig the hole and take away the excess soil etc. Then plan is for Aaron to do some terracing/decking around it in March/April ,the finishing liner and edging stones to be done May/June ready for next summer. 

A la prochaine!