We headed off towards an anticipated highlight of our road trip - the road along Loch Maree. The cognisenti think this loch is more picturesque than popular Loch Lomond. It is stunningly impressive in size, surrounded by pine forests, but quite inaccessible. The area is renowned for wildlife such as Pine martins and Golden Eagles.
We took a walk around the shore to give Millie a break from being in the van. Photos cannot really capture the size of this enormous area of water.
The majesty of Loch Maree is more explained by this viewpoint.
After the magnificence of the Lochs and Hills, which unfortunately today were shrouded in cloud, we decided to detour to the seaside village of Plockton. Travelling 7 miles off piste on a single track road with several hairy pass bys (why is it that SUV 4x4 drivers: Range Rover man I’m looking at you, will NOT take their vehicles even an inch off the road?) at passing places we finally arrived. What a find - a very pretty village reminiscent of a Cornish fishing village with a climate to match today.
Perusing and rejecting the two or three pubs for lunch Carol had her eyes set on moules marinière or equivalent. Fortunately the Plockton Inn provided and we had a lovely lunch: Moules Marinière, chips, and a magnificant Seafood selection. We could have been in Cornwall or even France..
Sadly Graham has captured my disgusted look whilst eating stuff I really enjoy - the kids always tease me about it! Sorry! The food was delicious - C .
Onwards to the Skye bridge and on to Armadale to the ferry to Malaig. The scenery between Plockton and Lockalsh is lovely. Not as brutal as the Highlands but gentle, curving ups and downs with whitewashed cottages dotted between the bends. Eventually we arrive at the bridge.
The bridge to Skye is actually two bridges joined by an island in the middle. The first one is unmemorable, second one isn’t too bad but could have been better, don’t you think? Built in 1995 the bridge toll was no cheaper than the ferry it replaced. Boycotts and non payments by locals forced the Scottish Government to pay off the debt in 2004 and scrap the tolls.
We had a tea break at Armadale Castle tearooms but regretted that when we saw the lovely tearoom at the ferry terminal. The cake/biscuit thing we had was awful, even Millie didn’t like it. Service wasn’t too great either. Also several gift shops at the ferry in which Carol bought a lively langoustine sculpture and a craft pottery salad dressing jug. Both will look great in the much anticipated Dorset holiday lodge we hope to enjoy next year.
Larry the Langoustine decorating the van.
A short ferry crossing with stunning views of Eigg, Rum and mainland Scotland - the weather calm and warm. We saw both seals and harbour porpoises.
View from the ferry with Eigg and Rum in the background. Eigg on the left, pancake, Rum hilly but hidden in cloud.
A short drive to our campsite just outside of Arisaig. We stayed here 8 years ago on our very first campervan trip and the views and the beach are just as glorious as we remembered, even if the campsite then was a third of the size.
Nearly sunset on the beach accessed from the site - tide very much in.
Day 17. Arisaig.
A day off driving for Graham today enabled a lovely lazy start to the day with a leisurely breakfast, taken outside in the sun.
We strolled down to the beach - with the tide out it spread for miles broken by rocky outcrops. Skye, Eigg, Rum all seen on the horizon.
We spent a couple of hours on the beach, gathering shells and chasing Millie. Millie goads you into kicking something in to the air and then leaps to catch it. Anything; sand, water, mown grass cuttings. Her mouth was full of sand at the end.
We ate lunch al fresco with the sun still showing it’s face and decided to walk in to Arisaig village.
It was a bit of a trek to be fair - a couple of miles sharing a single track road with traffic - mainly 4 x 4 ‘s or motorhomes. Up hill most of the way we eventually got to the village - a single row - a hotel, a coffee shop, a Spar shop and a restaurant. Still, the Spar had a French chardonnay and sold ice cream - the ice cream we enjoyed sitting on a bench overlooking the bay. Back the same route we passed the harbour where sightseeing and wildlife day boats can be taken for day trips. Last trip we managed a day trip to Eigg - this time we nodded as we passed by and made our way back along the same uninspiring road back to the site.
The pub we walked to last time had shut, turned into a posh house or holiday lets. The other big difference was traffic - more of it. This area is rightly VERY popular and we noticed more traffic while we were walking. Parking could be a real issue if you’re not booked in - day trippers may encounter problems if this sign is anything to be believed, although in truth we never saw any problems.
We managed a pre dinner drink al fresco before the midges arrived, and with rain forecast overnight packed away the outdoor chairs and table and retired to the van for dinner. Watched the footy on telly - hurrah ! - we got reception to watch the exciting Poland v England game.
We thought the ref a tad dodgy and Poland were dirty *******s. Well we would wouldn’t we.
Day 18. Arisaig to Fort William. 51 miles.
It had rained quite heavily overnight and was still doing so as we set off for our day’s travel. We were sooo lucky having sunny weather for our one day in Arisaig.
We drove steadily on more normal roads - no more single tracks as we head back into more populated Scotland. Passing by several lovely lochs and hill views we didn’t stop until Fort William. Fort William has two attractions (ignoring Ben Nevis for a moment): Neptune’s Staircase and an M & S Food-hall. Oh we are going to dine in style for our last few dinners! Got more wine and nice nibbles too…
Retracing our steps we went back to Neptunes Staircase - a dramatic series of 8 locks on the Caledonian canal. Graham was so looking forward to a long walk along the tow path ogling the yachts but it was chucking it down, grey, and empty. A friendly lock master informed us that a yacht would be coming by in about 15 mins, so after a quick sarnie and cup of tea in the van we headed back out with the rain easing a little.
Feel free to skip the next paragraph!
Neptunes’s Staircase (for those that don’t know) is a series of 8 locks, one immediately after the other, overseen by Thomas Telford between 1803 and 1822 on the Caledonian Canal which links the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea via Loch Linnie and Loch Ness thereby saving the need to circumnavigate the UK. Incredibly the canal and its locks was originally conceived as a job creation scheme to help stop emigration from the Highlands. I say incredibly because I imagined the route would have been in great demand by commercial traffic, but no, the route has almost only been used by tourists with a specially constructed with a “ye olde inn” as a stop off point. The locks were initially badly built and an engineers report criticised the masonry contractor arguing that the contractor thought the locks would never actually be used. Around 180 years later they were finally drained in the 1990’s and under the threat of demolition, a cost effective solution of 25,000 tons of grout was used to plug leaks amongst other stone related repairs. As the locks emptied we could see fountains of water squirting out of the walls beneath our feet, as though the stone absorbed water when full then gave it up to gravity when empty.
You can still see the foundations of the hand-powered wheels next to each lock - now electro hydraulic powered. Yachts do not have to de-mast as they pass through two bridges, still original 1820s constructions, (one railway and one road - main road into Fort William!) at the entrance to the staircase and then proceed through all 8 locks in one sitting. An hour and a half going up, or an hour going down, standing in the rain holding a wet and cold rope. Entrance is free, but you pay to use the canal network. Eg. £23 per metre for a week’s sailing. Not bad!
View from the top.
Ben Nevis is now invisible.
We know from our experiences in Hull Marina lock, it’s damp and cold at the bottom
But a lot nicer at the top. It only took about 7-8 minutes to balance the water level from the lock above.
After 50 minutes the yacht was moving into lock No 4. Bet it’s kettle on and rubbing hands when they get to the top.
Light rain forecast for tomorrow as we wend our way down South to Callander.
Day 18 , Arisaig to Gartmore nr Aberfoyle. Aprox 96 miles.
Today was a typical Sottish Highland day; moody, misty and rainy.
The view of Ben Nevis was uncompromising
We travelled through Glen Coe (unfortunately no pictures as it was engulfed in cloud) and beside Loch Linnie, the terrain becoming less hostile and more fertile.
After 60+ miles almost all downhill, we called in at Killin for a coffee and cake stop, and walked up to the Falls of Loch- which was a rather low key waterfall experience observed from a narrow road bridge where campervans, coaches and 4 x4 ‘s trundled by,
Onwards to our stopover at a Copeland Camping in the Forest near Aberfoyle
We walked the 2 miles into the Aberfolyle village along a disused rail line. There were several mountain bike trails, - in fact a mountain bike weekender was advertised commencing this evening - The Duke’s Weekender - which didn’t seem to have kicked off yet as all was very very quiet.
In Aberfoyle we found a gift/ Scottish large shop which proved to be more volume tourist products rather than Artisan stuff we anticipated. Ah well that saved us a few bob.
Back to the van for a cuppa , followed by a M & S Chicken Kiev supper - luxury!
Day 19. Aberfoyle to Cotherstone aprox 188 miles.
A pretty straightforward journey via mostly motorway lasting about 3.5 hours. Even from the M74 the views were stunning.
Doe Farm campsite, our stop for 2 nights, has access to a public footpath along a disused railway line to Cotherstone with lovely views of rolling hills and through fields of sheep. After a day in the van Millie relished the walk - especially a great chase with a local collie en route.
The footpath goes over a disused viaduct, the Balder Viaduct, built in 1860s over the river Balder. So it was in use for about 100 years before the Beeching Axe fell.
Back to the site for another M & S supper and a watch of the US tennis open on the tele.
The next day we headed out to High Force to walk along the river Tees, a popular walk from High Force waterfall to Low Force, where there is a tea shop in the Bowlees visitor centre.
This small suspension bridge just below Low Force was built in the 1830’s - they built them to last in those days !
And here our holiday ends. Tomorrow the short hop back home to Beverley.
Highlights:
Braemar - especially the drive up to Inverness over the Lecht ski centre
Orkney - there is so much to see in Orkney; war history, neolithic remains, shell hunting!, fauna and flora, plus a laid back friendly atmosphere
Tongue - amazing scenery and beaches around the surrounding villages, especially the Bettyhill area.
Arisaig - amazing scenery and beach.
Plockton - a delightful village with an almost Cornish feel.
Lowlights:
The roads - my God the road surfaces are terrible. We’re surprised our tyres and crockery survived.
Lairg - we enjoyed the salmon leaping but not much else. We stayed 2 nights, 1 night too many.
The popularity - the NC500 and Covid combined to make this trip very busy with rental motorhomes everywhere. Mostly dashing around trying to cover 500 miles in 7 days.
Wick - we drove in to find somewhere for lunch …and promptly out again … oh dear ….appeared run down and depressed, as we were, forced to eat a van lunch in the queue for the ferry.
Approximate mileage:
Approximate mileage:
Changing the battery wiped the trip memory but we reckon is was about 1800 miles round trip. (Including an extra round trip to Thurso to buy a battery)
Costs for 23 nights
Campsites: £585
Ferries : £206
Fuel : £290
Very interesting blog. By the sound of it I need to wait for the current staycations to finish before I try it. Pete
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