Prologue
Our very first campervan adventure was to Scotland in 2013 - the first adventure in Rex our Vantage Sol motorhome bought from new and still going strong now 8 years later. We have decided to return to the Orkneys, North and West coast and see how far we manage to get depending on time and weather.
We will be accompanied this trip by our lockdown puppy Millie (of whom you will see plenty of photos!) who will celebrate her 1st birthday on the 24th August! So we anticipate more walking and less cycling this time ……
Here we are posing by a wicker sculpture - photo taken by daughter Philippa during a stopover enroute - during a walk around Skipton Castle woodland walk. Looks like Millie is more interested in the stick on the ground than the camera.
We head up to Scotland Sat 21st August to our first stopover in Hawick in the Scottish Borders - a freebie as we will stay overnight at our friends Duncan and Gail Swanston’s home. Traffic on the way up was very busy but thankfully all in the other direction and we had a trouble free journey.
Hawick to Braemar 150 miles aprox. ( plus a good few miles detour to Falkirk)
We set off after a grand bacon/sausage buttie breakfast courtesy of our friends Duncan and Gail - thanks for the lovely evening and the B & B.
On Duncan’s suggestion we detoured via Falkirk to see the Kelpies and the Falkirk wheel.
The Kelpies.
Beside the Forth and Clyde canal on the site of a new 350 hectare Helix urban park stand these enormous sculptures of mythical Celtic water horses called The Kelpies constructed 2012 - 2013. You can do a tour inside the creatures. The twin hollow heads, each formed of 500 separate steel plates tower either side of a new lock. It looked like a good Sunday out for the locals, with plenty of parking.
With a marina and canal extension into the Forth and Clyde from the River Carron, the Helix eco park includes a large lagoon, a nearby events arena and extensive woodland…… royalties welcome from the Scottish Tourist board.
The Falkirk Wheel.
We enjoyed a nice cuppa and sarnie in the van sitting in the Kelpie carpark and then motored on to the Wheel, which took ages, through housing estates, business parks. You can hire electric bikes at the Kelpies and then whizz along the towpath to do it in half the time but Millie couldn’t have reached the pedals.
Between 2000 and 2002 this unique boatlift was constructed. It is the World’s first rotating boatlift, 35m high and 27m long.
Boat journeys take 15mins overall but the gondolas complete their half turn between the 2 canal heights in just 5mins. It links the Union canal with the Forth and Clyde canal. Thanks to the design balancing both gondolas it only takes 1.5kw of energy to make the complete transfer. (About 18p in 2021 prices, 27p in 2022 prices - spoiler alert - a big increase in your electricity bill is on its way).
Leaving the aquaduct boats go through Britain’s first new canal tunnel to be built for over a century. It is 168m long and was excavated beneath the remains of the Roman Antoine Wall.
The Wheel
The aquaduct
The tunnel
We then headed off for a slow long journey on to Braemar. It’s not a short journey, but there is beautiful and varied scenery. But this is just a taster of what’s to come. Climbing into the Caingorms we pass the Glenshee ski centre whose chairlifts continued to go by. In summer the ski centres become mountain bike centres. I didn’t know that! Get yourself towed up and enjoy a 2.5 km downhill trail! Wow, Who wouldn’t want to do that? Scenery was spectacular if brooding in sprinkling of rain that hit us occasionally amidst the dark clouds.
One of the ski / mountain bike runs.
Once in Braemar Caravan Site a watching tent owner reported it took us just around 10 mins to get sorted and sat down for a welcome cuppa.
He was much impressed as it took him a couple of hours to get sorted. The joys of van travelling! Note he travelled from Suffolk in a one-er. Let’s say he came from Ipswich. That’s 502 miles - 9 hours non stop and then plus 2 hours to put the tent up. And that’s with two small children. He was from South Africa. (Behind us with the 4x4 monster pickup).
Day 2. Mon 23rdAugust. Braemar
After a leisurely breakfast we went off for a gentle walk following a handy guide purchased at the campsite. The guide failed to mention the steep climb ( the mention of a viewpoint should have raised suspicion) and following the directions proved baffling. Thankfully some experienced local walkers put us right and we returned via the edge of a birch wood down an equally steep descent. Completed by a walk beside the River Clunie back into Braemar.
View from the viewpoint
Graham trying to tempt Millie into the river
View into Braemar from the river
Needless to say Carol failed to see the funny side as her arthritic knees protested - the walk feeling overlong and not at all gentle.
After lunch Carol remained Chez Rex with Millie and took a well earned rest
and Graham set off for a walk described as hilly …. Good luck with that.
Creag Croinnoch is described as a 2 mile 2 hour ascent and descent with great views a stone’s throw from the camp site. It didn’t disappoint but if you’re planning to do it then you’d do better to combine it with a circular round the foot, The Lion’s Face walk. ie. Walk round the hill and then walk back over it. At 586m it ranks in the 4 hundred and somethings in Scotland. Views though are as promised. Lovely valleys in 3 directions.
We finished our full day in Braemar with dinner at the Cairn grill and bar - we thoroughly enjoyed the meal, particularly the scallops, grilled seabass and local venison. An excellent local restaurant with young friendly staff. Would recommend if you’re ever in the area.
Braemar village centre was a short walk away from the campsite. A pretty village with an assortment of shops, hotels, cafés and restaurants.
And the Highland Games Park where the Royals get to watch locals undertaking parculiar Highlander events every now and then. We would love to come back: Braemar is beautiful.
Day 3 .Tues 24 th August. Braemar to Lairg. 125miles aprox.
Graham was not looking forward to driving the van along the trek across the Cairngorms- which looked daunting on the map. Not only that but locals (well Aberdonians) Graham met on “the hill” said they’d gone backwards crossing the Lechties in the Autumn in their small VW and were we going south and then up through Aviemore?
It proved to be a long drive but so enjoyable given the fantastic scenery. From driving by rivers surrounded by moss carpeted woodlands up to magnificent hilltops with views to die for - this gave New Zealand a run for it’s money!
We passed Balmoral Castle - well the sign for it anyway - it being hidden by tons of fir trees -the roadside gift shop is the only thing open when the Queen is in residence. Carol was disappointed the gift shop was not actually at the Castle - images of Queenie in a pinny serving teas at a tearoom quickly disappeared back to imagination. We did not go into the shop but in retrospect regret not buying a souvenir - a Prince Andrew sweatband or corgi decoration??
There was no sign of Charles languishing beside a Range Rover or Andrew lurking in the bushes -very disappointing. Only a Police sign demanding NO STOPPING. Onwards and upwards..
They’re behind there somewhere… We’re being flippant - this is BEAUTIFUL!
Distant view of Corgarff Castle
Views en route.
Just outside of Lairg we visit the Falls of Shin - where every year June - September Atlantic salmon leap upwards to their spawning grounds.
We saw a few: one large one made it and a couple of little ones fail whilst we were there but failed to photo it as evidence. Sorry!
Our home for the next 2 nights is on a remote farm a few miles out of Lairg. Very peaceful with distant views of Loch Shin and a lovely short walk down to the river.
Oh … and it was Millie’s 1st birthday - she celebrated with a doggie muffin and suffered the indignity of the wearing of the birthday neckerchief!
Day 4. Weds 25 th August
We awoke to a misty damp morning and with no local attractions decided to return to the Falls of Shin, to get that leaping salmon photo!
There were a choice of well marked short walks at the Falls visitor centre - the first was around 3km through a forest. The contrast of colours and textures were beautiful.
After lunch we did a short riverside walk cumulating at the Falls.
Where Graham patiently waited to photograph a leaping salmon. Today they appeared much more frequently.
And… ta da…. After some editing to highlight the successful fish, here he/she/it is.
Day 5 Thurs 26 August.
Coastal drive today up to catch the ferry at Gills Bay up to the Orkneys at St Margaret’s Hope. The most dog friendly and quickest ferry.
We stop briefly at Dunrobin Castle, a pile of very dubious heritage given its links to the Highland Clearances. We decide not to give them their entrance fee of £12.50 each but just park outside and steal a photo. We wonder whether they will be next for the ransacking following the recent uprising against statues commemorating generous slave traders.
And this was the rear entrance via the car park - the impressive front overlooking the sea is inaccessible.
We continued onwards and upwards via the North East coastal road via Wick - where we took a detour into the town and quickly wished we hadn’t - what a dump - sorry Wick.
After John O’Groats we headed to Gills Bay where we take the ferry to the Orkneys,
Here’s the ferry..
And on we got …. Orkneys here we come!
